My
cousin Bubbles and I have a running dialog about what we’re making for
dinner. The other day she mentioned
meatballs and then told me that she seldom makes them anymore because she has a
friend who, while claiming not to be a cook, makes the most superb rendition of
this true comfort food. I, on the other
hand, am a huge fan of these lovely little pillows of meat, almost inevitably
encased in a delicious sauce. I love to
try various versions of the meatball using pork or lamb, beef or a combination
of ingredients. However on the night I
made this wonderfully aromatic Moroccan dish, I had singled out a package of
Organic Beef for use in that night’s dinner.
And you’d be amazed how few recipes call for beef alone. This one did and it allowed me another
indulgence, one I’d been keen to explore.
A
couple of months ago, I joined a Facebook page devoted to Moroccan
cooking. Its leader is the incomparable Paula Wolfert,
the cookbook author and pride of San Franscisco. The latest of her 6 cookbooks is “The Food of
Morocco” (Harper Collins 2011) which has been on many Christmas lists of the
Best Cookbooks of the year. As a
Facebook friend, Ms. Wolfert is an amazingly prolific poster. I have to wonder if the woman sleeps at
all. But she certainly sleeps, eats and
cooks and promotes Moroccan cooking.
She’s had a 40 year career in Mediterranean cooking so she knows her way
around a tajine.
A tajine, or tagine is a dish named after the special earthenware pot in which
it is cooked. Tajines are slow-cooked stews braised at low temperatures to
bring tenderness to less expensive cuts of meat and surround them with aromatic
vegetables and sauces. The traditional
tajine pot is formed entirely of heavy clay, which is sometimes painted or glazed. There are two
parts: a base unit that is flat and circular with low sides, and a conical
cover with a knob-like handle for easy removal. While the stew simmers, the
cover can be lifted off without even having to use an oven mitt , letting you
inspect the ingredients, add vegetables, mix the contents, or add additional
liquid. Working somewhat like a Dufour, the cover helps the condensation return
to the bottom of the pot. Once the cover
is removed, you can take the base to the table for use as its own serving dish.
All that being said,
you can make this dish in any Dutch oven. And while I would genuinely love to own a true tajine, my New
York kitchen is already groaning under the weight of all the other pots it
needs. I’ll save the tagine for a trip
to Morocco. They’re certainly the right
color for our house at the beach.
Now
to this recipe. It is not from Ms
Wolfert, I am sorry to say. Instead it was found in Bon Appetit, the work of another
California-based food writer, Jean Thiel Kelley. Ms. Kelley’s most recent book is entitled
“Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes” (Running Press 2008). But here she’s conjured up a dish with true
Moroccan flavors. The meatballs require
a lengthy poke around the spice rack but chances are, you’ll have everything
you need. The stew too is all made with
familiar pantry ingredients. All you
really need to make sure you buy is fresh cilantro, 5 ounces of baby spinach
and a package of couscous. Couscous is
likely the simplest grain on earth to cook.
It’s just a matter of pouring boiling hot water over the stuff and
waiting five minutes. It’s wonderful
with the sauce in this recipe. The whole
dish is just a great change of pace on a weeknight. While traditional tajines cook over long
periods of time to tenderize their contents, this recipe takes very little
time. The whole thing was on the table in just over an hour. And since 35 of
those minutes are spent with the dish in the oven, it really is not at all labor
intensive, despite its lengthy list of ingredients. Here is the recipe:
Moroccan Beef Meatball Tagine from Jean Thiel Kelley in Bon Appetit
For the Meatballs:
1 1/2 pounds ground beef
(20% fat)
1/3 cup coarsely grated
onion
1/3 cup panko (Japanese
breadcrumbs)*
1/4 cup chopped fresh
cilantro
1 large egg, beaten to
blend
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground
cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground
nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon freshly
ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon coarse
kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground
ginger
For the Stew:
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 1/2 cups chopped
onions
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/8 teaspoon saffron
threads, crumbled
2 cups beef broth
1 14.5-ounce can diced
tomatoes in juice
1/4 cup golden raisins
2 cups 1/2-inch-thick
carrot slices (cut on diagonal)
1/4 cup chopped fresh
cilantro plus additional for garnish
1 5-ounce package baby
spinach leaves
Couscous with Fresh
Cilantro and Lemon Juice
Lemon wedges (for
garnish)
To make the meatballs:
Line large rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap.
Line large rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap.
Gently mix all
ingredients in large bowl.
Using moistened hands
and scant 2 tablespoonfuls for each, roll meat mixture into 1 1/2-inch
meatballs. Arrange meatballs on sheet.
To make the stew:
Heat oil in heavy large ovenproof pot over medium heat.
Heat oil in heavy large ovenproof pot over medium heat.
Add onions; sauté
about 15 minutes.
Add garlic, cinnamon,
turmeric, and saffron; stir 2 minutes. Add broth, tomatoes with juice, and
raisins.
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Bring stew to simmer. Stir in carrots. Carefully add meatballs to stew; gently
press into liquid to submerge. Sprinkle 1/4 cup cilantro over. Cover pot; place
in oven.
Bake until meatballs
are cooked through and carrots are tender, about 35 minutes.
Sprinkle spinach
over stew. Cover and bake until spinach wilts, about 5 minutes longer.
Gently stir to mix in
spinach, being careful not to break meatballs. Remove cinnamon sticks. Season
tagine with salt and pepper.
Spoon couscous into
bowls; top with tagine. Garnish with cilantro and lemons.








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