When
you can vividly remember a lunch you had ten years ago, I would have to say
that’s the power of great cooking. I
distinctly remember a visit to Washington Park on lower Fifth Avenue. The restaurant marked the triumphant return to New
York of Chef Jonathan Waxman. Chef
Waxman was a California cuisine pioneer. Name a famed West Coast restaurant and
Waxman may very well have worked there. For starters, add Michael’s in Santa Monica to a list that included a stint at Alice
Waters’ Chez Panisse. In the mid 80s, he
took Manhattan by storm after opening an Upper East Side place called,
appropriately, Jam’s, which was pretty much how you felt jammed into the bar
waiting for your table. Such was the
incredible popularity of the place. And what was it that I remember from that
lunch in 2002? Why Chef Waxman’s
chicken, of course.