Monday, July 23, 2012

Grandma’s Melt-in-your-mouth Moroccan meatballs and celery (Krafs ouel Kouari) from Lisa Elmaleh Craig’s “Grandma Elmaleh’s Moroccan Cookbook”, Uncle Earl’s and Cousin Kelly’s Moroccan “Quick Bread” and “Charissa”.

                  If you love food stories, this is a wonderful one.  It starts with Lisa Elmaleh Craig’s new book “Grandma Elmaleh’s Moroccan Cookbook” (Hesperus Press Ltd., London 2012).   The book takes us on one family’s journey through the ages until they came at last to the United States in 1939.  Like so many other Jewish families, the Elmaleh clan sought refuge here just before the outbreak of World War II.  Unlike many refugees, the Elmalehs were prosperous merchants who were soon living in a large house in Cedarhurst, Long Island.  There, Sarah Levy Elmaleh became renowned for her cuisine to the point where Craig Claiborne, the esteemed editor of the New York Times food section, hailed her with a headline any cook would envy: “Moroccan cooking that a sultan would envy”.