The Hamptons are rich in culinary talent. And Anna Pump is at the top of that list. Her influence on local cooking and eating reaches back to her arrival here in the late 1970s. Born in the town of Tarp, Germany, Anna and her late husband, Detlef, came to the United States with their two children in the 1960s. The family first settled in New Jersey where Detlef had a brother. Offered a house in Southampton for two weeks one summer, the two fell instantly in love with the area, which reminded them of Tarp. Even the potato fields felt familiar. Tucked up next to the Danish border, the town has the Baltic on one side, the North Sea on the other. The couples’ two children, son Harm and daughter Sybille were off to college so their parents went home to New Jersey and came right back out looking for a house. The one they found and lovingly saved from ruin is the same house Anna lives in to this day.
|Best of Friends|
Anna wasn’t with Ina very long before a tiny little roadside food shop came up for sale. In 1980, Anna bought “Loaves and Fishes” in the equally tiny hamlet of Sagaponack. There her output of wonderful things to eat continues to this day. Her fans are legion and while the place gained local notoriety when Lobster Salad hit $100. a pound, there’s no stopping the store traffic. It’s good to remember that last time we looked Sagaponack was the third most expensive zip code in the country, helped no doubt by the presence of the largest private house in the country, Ira Rennert’s Fair Field, a 63 acre property last valued at $170,000,000 in 2004. It’s not for sale. But right down the road is another little piece of heaven that’s just taken a price drop to $59,000,000. But I digress.
|In the Garden of|
The Bridgehampton Inn
|A colorful side dish of Grape Tomatoes|
Recipe for Grilled Fresh Tuna Steaks with Lemon Sauce
Serves 6 generous portions. Takes 1 hour 20 minutes to make including 1 hour marinating the fish.
For the Marinade:
1/3 cup Dijon Mustard
1/3 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
2 cloves of garlic, peeling and minced
3 tbsp. fresh rosemary, minced or 3 tsps. Dried
1 1/3 cups olive oil
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground black pepper
3 pounds of fresh tuna, cut into 6 steaks.
For the Sauce:
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) Unsalted Butter
3 tbsp. unbleached white flour
1 ½ cups Chicken Stock
1/3 cup Heavy Cream
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground black pepper
1 Lemon sliced for garnish
Any fresh herb for garnish (I used marjoram)
Combine all the marinade ingredients in the bowl of a food processor with the metal blade in place. Puree for 30 seconds or until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Pour the marinade into a casserole or pyrex dish then place the tuna steaks in the dish and make sure they are completely covered with marinade. Marinate 1 hour.
Pre-heat a grill or broiler until very hot. Pre-heat warming drawer or oven to 200 degrees.
Take the tuna from the casserole dish, reserving the marinade for the sauce. Grill the steaks until done. This should take about 4 minutes a side but it’s highly dependent on how thick your tuna steaks are and how your heat source. Test for doneness.
Arrange the tuna steaks on a warm platter and put them in the warming drawer or 200 degree oven while you make the sauce.
To make the sauce, melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour. Simmer stirring until all the lumps are gone. Add the chicken stock stirring constantly until the sauce begins to thicken. Add the cream, salt and pepper. Bring to a bubbling boil. Remove from the heat. Add the marinade and stir. Cover the fish lightly with sauce. Put the rest in a sauce boat and serve it on the side. Garnish the platter with the lemon slices and herbs.