When you can vividly remember a lunch you had ten years ago, I would have to say that’s the power of great cooking. I distinctly remember a visit to Washington Park on lower Fifth Avenue. The restaurant marked the triumphant return to New York of Chef Jonathan Waxman. Chef Waxman was a California cuisine pioneer. Name a famed West Coast restaurant and Waxman may very well have worked there. For starters, add Michael’s in Santa Monica to a list that included a stint at Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse. In the mid 80s, he took Manhattan by storm after opening an Upper East Side place called, appropriately, Jam’s, which was pretty much how you felt jammed into the bar waiting for your table. Such was the incredible popularity of the place. And what was it that I remember from that lunch in 2002? Why Chef Waxman’s chicken, of course.