Duck a l’Orange lives in our memory as one of our first introductions to restaurant food. In Montreal, where we lived, it was fairly ubiquitous on the city’s better menus. We loved it for its sweetness and its crunch. For the dark duck meat and the crispy skin. For the orange sauce with its taste of Grand Marnier. We remember feeling sophisticated just ordering it…although we likely didn’t know what the word sophisticated meant at the time. At any rate, when this month’s Food and Wine arrived, an article written by Rux Martin, the editor of the soon-to-be-published “Essential Pepin” Jacques Pepin’s soon-to-be-released cooking anthology, intrigued us.