Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts

Monday, June 16, 2014

Short Ribs in a Cinnamon and Red Wine Sauce: An East Indian take on a North American Classic

          This was one of the first posts I published back in 2010 when I started to blog.  Because my readership was nowhere near what it is now, I should not have been as surprised as I was to see that it never really attracted a big audience. That struck me as a shame because it is a spectacularly interesting take by a master of Indian cooking who invented one of the most unique cooking styles anywhere--a fusion between Indian inflected spices and great Canadian ingredients--in this case the country's phenomenal grass fed beef.  As to its seasonality, I say it would be as good in July as it would be in January.  After all, it's a variation on that summer staple--Ribs.  What makes it a particularly attractive take on Ribs is that it doesn't require firing up a grill.  Instead it cooks away in the oven for hours.   So here, a reprise of something awfully good that I hope will get the attention it deserves.
          If you’ve had any luck in life, you’ve had the good fortune to visit Vancouver, British Columbia. It’s a city that’s got it all. They say in winter you can sail and ski on the same day. Surrounded by water and a little over an hour from the slopes at Whistler, that sounds highly possible. Yes, it has that Pacific Northwest climate with a few more rainy days than I’d find ideal, but it’s blessedly warmer than the rest of Canada in winter and temperate all summer. And Vancouver is a foodie’s delight. In fact, Mimi Sheraton thinks the best Asian cuisine in North America is found there. I’d add that the best South Asian food in Vancouver is served at Vij’s, Vikram VijDescription:’s no reservation restaurant at 1480 West 11th Street in the South Granville area of the city. And I wouldn’t be alone. The New York Times called Vij’s “Easily among the finest Indian restaurants in the world.” 

Monday, December 13, 2010

Back to the Breslin and a sandwich I waited all summer for


      I recently introduced Andrew to the Breslin, April Bloomfield’s gastropub in the Ace Hotel (16 West 29th St. between Fifth Ave. and Broadway Tel: 212 679 1939) .   We sat at the bar and ate our lamb burgers and thrice-cooked chips and enjoyed every minute of it.  The place is always busy and since it doesn’t take reservations, it’s wise to get there bang on the dot of 12:00 to be sure you can get a table for lunch.  Max, the bartender who is another good reason to go to the Breslin, told me that last Saturday they did over 400 covers at lunch!  The food is honest and to be honest, a guilty pleasure since Ms. Bloomfield seems to have a diet-be-damned attitude to her cooking.  I am sure there are some healthy alternatives on the menu, it’s just I would never order them.  Who wouldn’t prefer an Oven baked 3 cheese sandwich with house smoked ham and an egg over a seasonal frittata with ricotta cheese?    That would be a Breslin breakfast.  Stay for lunch and the menu is even more inviting.  But for me, there really is nothing to compare with the Grilled Tonque Sandwich with borscht.   I am quite serious.  The same tongue sandwich I heard Michael Symons rave about on “The Best thing I ever ate”. That same tongue sandwich that disappeared off the menu during the summer months. Thank goodness someone had the presence of mind to bring it back this Fall.  So what’s all the fuss about?  Read on…

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

A visit to April Bloomfield’s “The Breslin” and a recipe for Lamb Burgers with Yogurt Sauce and Tomatoes

        At The Breslin, April Bloomfield’s much-written-about “British Gastropub” at 16 West 29th Street,(TEL: (212) 679-1939), I  became totally enamored of the Lamb Burger.  It’s almost as outrageously tasty as the “Thrice Cooked Chips” that are as good, if not better, than any French fry I have ever tasted outside of France.  Together, these two items make the long wait for a table a reasonable proposition.  And that’s saying something because the place takes no reservations and even at lunch it’s jammed long before noon.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

A visit to In-N-Out Burger with our favorite food critic.

        Beats me why anybody would go to California and not head straight to the first In-N-Out Burger you can find.  My son tells me it’s really a cult – and he’s not just talking about the food.  In-N-Out Burger has the distinction of paying its personnel significantly more than minimum wage.  They’ve also been known to publish Bible verses on their wrappers and bags.  (No sign of them on our visit, however) There's even a 'secret' menu of things not on the list but it's pretty easy to find online at  In-n-Out is not a franchise but instead owns all its own stores – somewhere near 240 of them, all in the West.  So we headed over to the nearest one which, coincidently, is pretty close to Irvine, where the family-owned company is headquartered. 

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Joe and Liza’s Fish Sandwich from Bay Burger, Sag Harbor NY.

Three years ago in May, Joe and Liza Tremblay and took over a roadside place in Sag Harbor, NY, that was called “Linda’s Famous Cheesecake”.  I had one friend who swore by Linda’s cheesecake but to be honest, I could never figure out when the place was open.  It was desolate most of the time.  Then Joe and Liza came along and opened “Bay Burger” at 1742 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, (631-899-3915).  Joe is a former grillman at the Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien in Manhattan, generally acknowledged to have one of the best burgers in the city.  Liza is a Culinary Institute of America graduate who makes the couple’s eponymous ice cream.  The slogan for the ice cream is “It’s from the Hamptons so you know it’s rich”. 

Monday, March 8, 2010

Review of Bill’s Bar and Burger and a recipe for Chicken Parmigiano Burgers


 This weekend for the first time in what seems like months, we were finally able to walk anywhere without feeling that we were in a race against the cold.   So we jumped on the opportunity to visit the High Line. This is an only-in-New York invention: A ‘park’ on an abandoned elevated railroad spur on the far west side of Manhattan.  It’s currently runs from 20th St to just below 14th St and it packs people in as it wanders through the new Art Gallery district and through the modernist Architecture that’s building up around it.  A nice walk it was and by the time we got to the end of it, we were hungry.
Fortunately, Bill’s Bar and Burger is right there at 22 Ninth Avenue.  It opened in October and it’s been the toast of this burger-loving town ever since.  It’s been thoroughly covered by everyone who covers food in New York .  My favorite quote on the hand-out postcard at the bar:  “It was magnificent.  It restored my faith in hamburgers and the country that produced them.”- Vanity Fair (!) Wow.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Review of Resto, a Belgian restaurant on E. 29th St.

Restaurant Week in New York City is getting stranger and stranger.  First off, it lasted for 2 weeks before ending its run last Sunday.  When it started, the prix fixe made infinite good sense.  In the 1999, lunch cost $19.99. In 2007, it was $20.07.   Something odd happened this year because despite its being 2010, Restaurant Week’s prix fixe at lunch is now  $24.07.  But it’s always represented an opportunity to go somewhere new and try something different which is what a group of us decided to do last Friday when we met at Resto, 111 East 29th St. between Park and Lex (212-685-5585)

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Review of “Jamie’s Food Revolution” from Jamie Oliver and a recipe for a Quick and Easy Chicken Curry

The first post on Chewing the Fat was about Jamie Oliver’s Beef and Guinness Pie so if you’ve been with us for the whole ride, you know I am a huge fan of the man. I was very pleased to see his latest book show up under the Christmas tree (“Jamie’s Food Revolution”, Hyperion 2009 $26.25 at It is both a book and a crusade. The crusade is to counter some really pretty dreadful statistics about eating in America and in Jamie’s native Britain. Did you have any idea that fewer than a third of Americans cook their dinners from scratch these days? Or worse, that although 75 % of us eat most of our meals at home, over half of those dinners are fast food, delivery or takeout? Or even worse, that Americans spent more money on fast food in 2007 than they did on education? But Jamie has a plan.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Review of da Umberto, a Tuscan Classic in Chelsea

You have to be doing something right when you set up shop in 1987, in what was then an unfashionable part of town, and keep people packing your restaurant for the next 22 years. But it’s a love it or hate it kind of place as I discovered this week.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Review of Salumeria Rosi in New York City

First of all, let’s get the name right. It’s SALLA MARIA RO SEE. And it’s well worth checking out especially if you’ve already trekked across or up town to go to the Lincoln Square movies or Lincoln Center. It’s a brief walk up Broadway, a left veer onto Amsterdam Avenue and there it sits at 283 Amsterdam Avenue just in the block after 73rd Street. (Tel: 212 877 4800 )

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Restaurant Review: Mas(Farmhouse) and a recipe for Salted Caramel Ice Cream

      Mas is a wonderful restaurant on Downing Street which is almost outside the boundaries of Greenwich Village. For whatever reason, we had never heard of it when we were cruising Zagat’s for a place for a celebration. And Mas scored a 28 for food, which puts it in some very famous company and is, in fact, the highest food score you can achieve in Zagat’s.