I have expressed my affection for Jacques Pépin and his latest cookbook “Heart and Soul in the Kitchen” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2015). This book is filled with recipes that are more at home at home than they are in restaurants. One of his dishes is such a favorite of mine that I’ve made it several times now: It’s his recipe for Chicken in Cream Sauce. It is the best of French country food, an amazingly satisfying dish combining heavy cream and mushrooms and wine with fork-tender chicken. It’s a triumph of simple cooking requiring nothing more than browning the chicken and making the sauce all in one pan and in all of about 30 minutes. Its genesis was in Chef Pépin’s mother’s kitchen in the town of Bourg-en-Bresse. And if you know anything about French chickens that name should ring a bell.
|Poulet de Bresse|
Poulet de Bresse is France’s most highly prized Chicken. It actually has its own Appellation d’Origine Controlée status meaning it can only be produced from the White Chickens of the Bresse breed and they can only be raised in this legally defined area in Eastern France. It is of course the area Pépin grew up in. It is about 43 miles from France’s capital of Gastronomy, Lyon. So Jacques Pépin knows his way around a chicken, hailing as he does from its center,
|“The Physiology of Taste” in Print since 1825|
heat for about 2 1/2 minutes on each side.